Walking can change your life.

I have experienced this first-hand from walking the Camino de Santiago pilgrimages in Europe. Many other things have contributed to big shifts in my life, as I’m sure for you too. But walking the Camino, 3 in 5 years, has undoubtedly had the biggest impact. It helped me reclaim my worth, self love, introduced me to the embodied feeling of awe, and led me to my soul mate, Ingo.

But I don’t want to make this article all about me, I want it to be a resource for you :) So I’ll touch on what the Camino is, why I walked my first Camino, the biggest lessons I have learnt after completing my third Camino, my tips if you’re thinking about doing it, and resources to help you.

Walking.

To start with, and somewhat randomly, I want to share this episode of the Australian podcast called The Imperfects. They interviewed a wonderful woman, Chrissie Swan, a popular media identity in Australia.

Amongst other things, she spoke about the impact walking 10km a day has had on her life. It helped her get honest with herself, and her life changed because of that. She cried. And I was also in tears listening. I knew exactly what she was talking about.

I encourage you to listen to that episode here. And what a beautiful photo and quote this is:

Getting Honest. Why I walked my first Camino.

I got honest with myself in 2017/2018.

What does that actually mean? To me, it meant I asked questions of myself that were really bloody scary. It meant I invited those questions IN to take a seat at the table instead of bypassing them. It meant I heard them. It meant I believed the questions to be valid, even if I didn’t really want to address them.

And for whatever reason, I answered them as honestly as I could muster.

These were the answers:

I feel claustrophobic. I am not happy.

I want something different for my life.

Along with these answers came a tsunami of self-judgement and feeling incredibly spoilt, ungrateful and selfish. Because I had a good, privileged life. After that came the crippling levels of fear, and then, and for a period of time, I went into a stage of denial and unravel, before I picked myself up and made a plan.

Because I had the deepest knowing that there was something else I was supposed to be doing. Somewhere else I was supposed to be. I trusted that feeling more than anything, even though I had NOTHING to base it on. Blind faith.

I just knew that I needed to explore it, and for me, at that time, I couldn’t do it in the confines of the life I had built for myself.

That is why I walked my first Camino de Santiago.

The Camino de Santiago

The town of Santiago de Compostela is in the far North Western corner of Spain. It is believed that some of the remains of one of the Apostles, St James, are buried at the site of the Cathedral. For over 1000 years, Catholics have made pilgrimage to Santiago from all over Europe to visit these sacred remains. All roads, lead to Santiago.

The most traditional route, is called the Camino Frances, or The French Way and it is in yellow on the simplified map below. This can often confuse people thinking it goes through France, it does not, there are routes through France, but it’s called the Frances because it begins in France. Specifically in the town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, which takes pilgrims over the Pyrenees mountain range and into Spain within one-two days.

The Camino paths I have walked are:

2018: Camino del Norte or The Northern Route, which is the blue line. It runs along the coastline of Spain, and down into Santiago from there.
2021: Camino Frances or The French Way, which is the yellow line. And I walked onto Muxia (not on the map) and Fisterra, which meets the Atlantic Ocean at the most Western part of Spain.
2023: Camino Portuguese or The Portuguese Route, which is the Purple line. I started from Porto and walked the Coastal Way and the Spiritual Variante. Once again I walked onto Muxia and Fisterra.

Technically, you could walk to Santiago from anywhere in Europe. Below is a map that shows the extent of the trails. I once met a man who had walked from Minsk in Russia.

Back to the Ancient Pilgrims.

Historically, during their pilgrimage, if they made it alive, these men were threatened, robbed, attacked; it was not a safe experience. So churches and locals along the way would take them in, provide water, and allow them to rest. To reach Santiago was of course, a feat. There, they were cleansed in the Cathedral by the Botafumero; a 80kg item releasing 40kg of charcoal and incense that cleared the air of the stench of dirty pilgrims. Many continued on to the ocean, to a town called Finisterre or Fisterra. Here they would burn what remained of their clothing, and collect a shell from the shore to carry for their return journey, also made on foot. I suspect this is more of a modern-ish tradition, but nonetheless, the shell became the symbol of a pilgrim, and is seen all over the Camino today.

There are tributes, monuments, art installations and reminders of these pilgrims all along the routes, particularly the Frances / French Way.

And when you’re walking the path where so many have gone before you, these things really do mean something.

Click to enlarge below. These images are all from the Camino Frances / The French Way.

Nowadays, the locals don’t take pilgrims in anymore, but they often offer water, fruit, conversation, and are always willing to steer you in the right direction if you take a wrong turn. And thankfully, there are Albergues, or Pilgrim accommodation, hotels and Pensions to sleep in. There are plenty of restaurants and cafes for food, way-marks that are kept up to date (for the most part!), apps with maps and information and even backpack carrying services. We have walking sticks, our shoes and gear is optimised, and we have rain and sun protection, and first aid kits. Yes, you get dirty, injured, have bad sleeps in bad places, walk alongside roads and industrial areas, and run the risk of bug, dog and wild pig attacks, but overall the journey for a modern pilgrim is a lot more comfortable than it used to be!

Why do people walk the Camino de Santiago?

Every pilgrim you meet has a different reason for their walk, and it takes a little relationship building before you venture in with this question. As you’d expect, for some it can be very personal. But you meet artists who need space to map out a book they need to write, parents who have an agreement that each one gets a Camino per year for their own mental health, many people who have burnt out, those in between jobs, people recovering from break-ups, some who have been prescribed by doctors and correctional facilities! Others just love walking, love Spain, and love the sense of community the Camino offers.

But it allllll happens out there on those long, winding paths towards the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, let me tell you.

A well-known phrase on the Camino is ‘the Camino provides’ and it’s very true. Whatever your body, heart and soul needs, at that moment in time, is likely to be delivered to you on the Camino. Sometimes it comes in the form of the last bed in an Albergue after a brutal day, or a water fountain appearing just as your supply runs out. Other times it can appear in the form of a wrong turn or an injury slowing you down, only to meet an interesting person, whether its for a short conversation that sticks with you forever, or in my case, the love of my life. Even when the Camino is hard, and unpleasant, there are lessons. Even when you feel flat and uninspired out there, it is providing, when you allow yourself to see things this way.

10 Lessons and Benefits from Walking the Camino de Santiago:

Time in nature: Spending up to 8 hours a day outside, everyday for up to 6 weeks is life-changing on its own.
Self-trust: Believing in yourself, facing challenges and overcoming fears and physical difficulty everyday builds a very strong trust muscle. This comes home with you and into your normal life; I know I can get through anything.
Meet your pure self: There is nowhere to hide on the Camino, not even from yourself. No makeup, hair styles, nice clothes, accessories, job titles, schedules, commitments and busy lives. It’s just you and you. And you meet others when they are just themselves that way too; the good and bad on both fronts. This is unbelievably refreshing.
Walking. Movement. Walk it out. If you’re feeling sick, walking helps. If you have a niggle, walking helps. If you’re angry, walking helps. If you’re happy, walking helps. Literally walking EVERYTHING out helps you understand that life moves on and so do our bodies, hearts, minds.
Surrender: On the Camino, you can’t choose the path. You surrender to the way that millions have walked before you. It leads you through horrendous industrial areas, busy highways and boring city streets or stretches of nothing. But then, without expecting it, you can hit a stunning coastline, a beautiful forest, a hidden church, or a babbling brook. Every day you wake up and you don’t know what you’re going to see or experience. This creates an energy for the day, and life.
Letting Go: Actually the hardest thing for me on all Camino’s, is learning to let go of the beautiful moments I would have EVERY day. A sunrise, an interaction with kind locals, kind pilgrims, funny conversations and random moments, a silent forest. The list goes on. The days are FILLED with beauty and I had to learn to let go of the good, and the bad.
Less and Enough, not More: Right on cue, a few days into any pilgrimage, you want to remove items from your bag. You simply don’t need to carry much. Enough, is just enough. This lessons engrains itself more and more deeply with each Camino.
Awe and Wonder: Experiencing this on a daily basis, I’m sure does something to the cells in the body. Once you know how it feels, you seek it out in life and know how and where to access it, and what it can do to your soul. Again, the fact that you can experience this daily for an extended period of time, is life-changing.
A Different World: It is one small step out of normal life and into pilgrim life. Suddenly, a whole new set of decisions need ot be made - where to sleep, take the shorter and harder path that day or the longer, easier one, take the first coffee shop or run the risk of there being a better one, which bed - top or bottom bunk, take a rest day or keep going. It’s crazy. And wonderful. Then just as you stepped into it, you step out again when you arrive at the airport/bus/train station to go home. It’s like stepping between worlds. What a wonderful experience.
Time & Space: Speaks for itself. Endless time and space. It is busy on the Camino - doing Camino things and making Camino decisions, but you get a lot of time to yourself, and space for all your thoughts and feelings. Be ready for that, this can be a lot.

My Tips:

Don’t overthink it or over plan it. I met pilgrims who had used organisations that book Pensions for every night, on one hand this is very reassuring, but as they get their confidence and meet people, they lament the fact that they aren’t staying with their new friends in the Albergues. Advice: plan out your route and the rough places you want to stay, but only book the first 3 nights. You will need to keep booking a few nights in advance, but this is possible once you’re on the path.

Stay in Albergues, at least for most of the time. I usually stay in a hotel or Pension once every two weeks or so. But the Albergues are resourced for pilgrims - space for your poles and boots, cloth drying options in the sun, areas to sit and stretch and be with other pilgrims hearing about their experiences, tips and plans. Refer to point 9 above, you’ve stepped OUT of normal life and into another world, jumping in and out of it too much with your accommodation options can feel disruptive out there. Advice: If you’re taking a rest day in a main town, book a hotel or Pension for the night prior so you can have a sleep in and enjoy your rest day.

Which route? Camino Frances for a first Camino: Of course, only if you can. But I recommend the Camino Frances, including Muxia and Finisterra which will need 6 weeks. But it is the most traditional route, best resourced, and extremely varied in its landscape and culture. It’s getting busy though… very busy. Especially in the final 100km which isn’t great, but this shouldn’t stop you doing it. The Camino del Norte is breathtakingly beautiful, very hard, and quieter. The Portuguese is newer, offers beautiful ocean walks, but it doesn’t ‘take you out’ of normal life as much as the other two.

Adjusting: Give yourself two weeks for your body to adjust to walking, let all the niggles (not pain) work themselves out. After two weeks, if anything persists, then you could consider seeing a doctor or a physiotherapist. Likewise, it can take a solid two weeks on the other side, to recover.

Find, and go at your own pace. I cannot stress this enough. If you are a slow walker, do not try and keep up with faster/taller walkers - you will get injured, and it won’t be enjoyable. Listen to your body and do what’s right for you! Blisters and injuries result from pushing too hard.

Be open and kind: Every person out there has a story, be open to every single person, leave the judgements we all carry, at home. It is the loveliest thing about the Camino; the camaraderie and care regardless of age, race, gender or whether someone ‘looks like’ someone you would normally connect with. Surprise, some of the greatest connections can come from unexpected people and places.

Common Questions:

When is the best time to do it? The season (being, when most Albergues are open) runs from April to October. But given how busy it’s getting, you could walk at any time of the year. The Spanish take their holidays in July / August and this tends to be VERY busy, so April/May and September/October is usually good. Summer in Spain is another consideration too, it’s HOT out there. I did the Camino Frances in July/August and I wouldn’t do that again.
How to pick a route? A little intuition and a little logic and it depends what you want. I intuitively chose the Camino del Norte along the coast because I just wanted to be along a coastline. The most popular route is the Camino Frances, followed by the Camino Portuguese and then the Camino Del Norte. It will ultimately come down to how much time you have, as a starting point and then some research can help you from there.
How do I start? I started walking from the door of my hostel in San Sebastian, off the train in St Jean Pier de Port and in the morning from a hostel in Porto. Some people start from their homes. You just grab your bag, find an arrow and start walking - there is no need to tell anyone and there is no starting line. You just need your Pilgrims Passport and off you go.
What about Albergues and sleeping with others? honestly you’re so knackered you would sleep on anything, anywhere. So the fact that you can get a bed and access to a shower, is so good. It’s enough. It takes about 2 days to get used to the pros and cons of an Albergue, and then you just get over it and start to enjoy them. They are not for everyone though, and that is fine too :)
Blisters? Yes. Likely. There is a blister etiquette out there too, some people want to help by offering suggestions and others prefer not to interfere. You don’t want to offer advice that ends up being wrong, and ending someone’s Camino. That’s a big responsibility! But you’ll learn where your blisters are going to appear, every foot is different, and then you’ll find your own way of treating them.

Resources and References:

YouTube:

Efren Gonzales is a YouTube account that we love. He’s done SO many Camino’s and you’ll learn a lot from him.
Vanhalla Adventures: An American woman walked the Camino Frances in 2022 and I appreciated her open recount of the experience and the joys and hardships she faced.
Ivar Camino: Ivar is frm Finland and lives in Santiago. Here he runs a luggage storage facility, and regularly posts YouTube videos with insights and statistics from Santiago regardling pilgrim numbers, weather, and intel from ‘on the ground’.
Casa Susi: Sue is an Australian woman from Sydney who walked multiple Camino’s and decided to open her own Albergue. Here is an interview with her about that. I have met Sue during my 2021 Camino Frances, and sadly her Albergue was closed at the time from Covid restrictions, but the space she has created is stunning and she is a mighty and beautiful woman.

Forums & Websites:

Official Website of the Pilgrims Office: A very helpful website that tells you about the numbers of pilgrims into Santiago each day, official statistics of the routes, where to get your Pilgrim Passport and how to get the Compostela (certificate for completion) and other more formal pilgrim-related updates.
Casa Ivar: I mentioned Ivar above, he also runs a very popular Camino forum here. There is endless intel and insight you can find, including weather, packing tips, bed bug information, and experiences from pilgrims who are on the path. He also has a website for information about his luggage storage facility. That means, if you are doing other travelling before or after your Camino and need to store that luggage somewhere, he can do that for you. His opening hours on the weekend are not great though, so be aware of that.
Santiago Correos: The postal service in Spain is called Correos and their services for Pilgrims are very efficient and helpful. You can use them for luggage transfers and luggage storage in Santiago. This means, if you want to send 1kg of belongings forward from any point on the Camino, to Santiago, it will be waiting for you at the Correos Santiago when you get there. You simply take your belongings to the local Correos, wherever you are, but before 3pm / Siesta, and they should know the address of the Santiago brand. You’ll need to pay for a postage box, and the postal fee. Often there is a storage small fee on collection in Santiago.

Guidebooks, Apps & Route Planning:

Wise Pilgrim: The choice for most English-speaking pilgrims. They offer guidebooks and Apps. I can highly recommend the Apps - they are regularly updated, they work offline, and track where you are against the Camino trail. They also have details of all Albergues and other accommodation options.
Gronze.com for planning: A website with the ability to map out the ‘stages’ - which are your days. There are so many ways you can cut a Camino. I didn’t plan any of my Camino’s but if you’re short on time, or want to reach certain Albergues at certain times, you can use a stage planner like this one to help.

The End!

Thank you for reading! If you have any questions or comments, pop them below! I will update this page as and when more thoughts come to mind. I’m always here to help, so please let me know if you need any further information.

Much love, Alice x

Lessons from walking the Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage.